10/15/202, Kelly

Winding up our one month stay in San Sebastián, we feel it’s appropriate to commemorate our top things.

TOP FOUR PINXTOS:

[We could usually get two of these fabulous pinxtos and a glass of wine each for about ten bucks.]

1. Taco Talo at Menduar Berria – Lightly grilled calamari with some special sauces and micro greens on a small soft tortilla. The first time we had it, after ONE bite, Jim shouted over to the departing waiter “tres mas, por favor!”
2. Grilled Shrimp at Bar Goiz Argi – a small skewer of grilled shrimp on a little slice of French bread with some sort of sauce. We asked the cook what was in the fresh tomato-y sauce and she explained it in detail… in Basque. We couldn’t understand a word. But, wow!, that was some pinxto!
3. Atun Rojo at Txakolina – The combo of the super fresh seared tuna topped with perfectly grilled onions, paired with thinly sliced seaweed and balsamic glaze on the side just melded into one perfect bite after another.
4. Grilled Cod & Octopus at Hemeretzi – (A late arrival) Neither of us are octupus fans, but at the bartender’s urging we tried this pinxto on our second to last night and it was muy bueno!

TOP FOUR ACTIVITIES:

1. Body Surfing at La Zarriola – This picture perfect beach was fun and happening whether it was breaking big or small. There were always lots of surfers in the water, coming and going, and Jim made it a point to body surf every day he could. He enjoyed it immensely (despite the tiny percentage of nude swimmers). Funny fact – while there were always lots of folks sunning on the beach, hardly anyone uses beach chairs here.
2. Drinks after dark on the basilica steps – Koroku Andre Mariaren, an 18th century baroque minor basilica, faces a small square surrounded by restaurants and bars. Late in the evening the stairs of the church fill up with folks who grab drinks from the nearby establishments, bring them over to the stairs and just hang out sipping, chatting, and watching the world go by.
3. Drinks and/or dining at K21 in Plaza de Constitucion (formerly a bull ring!) – Built in 1817, this gorgeous square has so much character! The little numbered flats’ surrounding and overlooking it were originally used to host viewing parties for the bull fights! Sitting in the outdoor cafes of the square and watching the kids play soccer as their parents relax over a glass of wine, or the tourists wander into this cool space for the first time, or even watching a quiet protest march through, is a lovely way to pass some time.
4. Climbing Monte Urgull – Nearly every day, I climbed this hill all the way up to the 12th century fortress on top that is capped with the Sagrazo Corazon statue (picture a smaller version of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer.) With the various trails, paved paths, and ancient staircases and tunnels winding and weaving their way up to the top in and out of ancient turrets, fortress walls, and watchtowers – I never went the same way twice. It was always a great workout adventure with a view!

Runner Ups: Drinks at Urgulleko Polboriña bar at sunset on the top of Monte Urgull; the east end of the Nuevo Paseo (walkway along the beaches) ends at a rugged point (Peine del Viento) where the big waves break over three sculptures by Eduardo Chillida, and wind and water burst up through holes in the ground; and the little fife and drum corps that marches through the old town on Sunday mornings.

It’s hard to leave this little city which has won us over and now sits at the very top of our list of “Favorite Vacation Spots of All Time.” The beaches, the views, the architecture, the art, the history, the food, the culture, the people, the hikes, the vibe. Just everything. If you ever get the chance., Zoaz! (That mean’s “Go!” in Basque.)